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Sunday, March 27, 2011
Hyundai is pulling a very neat trick with its Veloster. It's a slightly larger car inside than the Scion tC (and Mini Clubman or Honda CR-Z hybrid). Yet thanks to a very low 2,600-pound curb weight—400 pounds less than the tC— it's said to get up to 40 mpg from its directly injected, 1.6-liter four-cylinder engine. That would best Honda's CR-Z numbers without necessity of hybrid technology, and with the benefit of a bigger cabin. One oddity: Access to the interior is a bit quirky, with one door on the driver's side, but both front and rear doors on the passenger side. 
Remember that weight? Fewer doors allow a carmaker to reduce structural reinforcements, and that keeps down bulk. And a low weight allows an increase in fun factor—indeed, Hyundai is promising greater sportiness than its rivals. Can the Veloster "out-fun" a Mini? Hmm, we're not sure, but Hyundai is promising a tighter turning circle than even a base Mini Cooper and a sophisticated, buttoned-down-sounding suspension. Transmissions include Hyundai's first dual-clutch six speed (hopefully with paddles) or a six-speed manual. Pricing should be in the $20,000 range. more review
On the Toyota Camry the front wheels rotate on two pivot points: the upper Strut Bearing sandwiched between the Strut Mount and the Upper Spring Mount; and on the bottom with the Lower Ball Joint. The Ball Joint is a ball-in-socket steering component that permits the directional movement of the front wheels. The constant impact with rough road surfaces, pot holes, speed bumps, curbs and general road obstructions places considerable stress on this important steering component. The Camry Ball Joint is lubricated with grease and is sealed with a rubber boot.
Unlike some other cars, this is a 'Seal for Life' component with no grease fittings for lubrication. If the boot were to dry rot or split, the Ball Joint must be replaced since moisture and dirt will accelerate wear and cause eventual failure. Worn ball joints will exhibit excessive free play that may make wheel alignment difficult and cause uneven tire wear. Ball joints that are very worn will 'clunk' when the wheel is at full deflection (completely turned) and hitting bumps. A failed Ball Joint during vehicle operation can be catastrophic that may result in partial loss of vehicle control; therefore any doubt as to its condition should warrant replacement. Although there are various methods of testing the condition of ball joints when the vehicle is stationary, from personal experience, Camry's with suspected ball joint wear that had passed the test continued to exhibit noise until the joints where replaced. These noises existed after replacing the strut mount and sway bar links. Steering response and precision was noticeable after the ball joint replacement.
Ball Joint Removal
Their are several methods that can be used for removing the old ball joint but the method to be described has worked well for me with a predictable outcome.
1. Remove the wheel and support and vehicle with a reliable jack stand.
2. Remove the axle nut cotter pin and remove the 34 mm axle nut that secures the drive shaft to the wheel hub. If an impact driver is not available, loosen the nut before removing the wheel off the hub. It took a few extra minutes but I choose to remove the brake pads, brake caliper, caliper bracket and rotor so the steering knuckle can be swung away from the axle shaft without a lot of hassle and hardware.
3. Remove the two bolts and one nut that secures the lower ball joint to the lower A arm or wish bone. Detach or swing the ball joint away from the steering knuckle while pulling the outer end of the axle shaft away from the steering knuckle. This will expose the castle nut and cotter pin that joins the ball joint spindle recessed in the steering knuckle. If this proves difficult, a crow bar will help facilitate apply downward pressure on the lower A arm.
Click thumbnail to view full-size
4. Attach a Ball Joint Separator Tool (as shown in the illustration) and keep applying turning pressure on the Ball Joint Spindle. When pressure fit tension is relieved from the spindle, the joint will 'pop' off.
5. Fit the spindle of the new ball joint into the steering knuckle and fasten the new castle nut as per the manufacturer's recommended torque. A torque wrench is recommended. After the proper torque has been applied, additional torque may be necessary to align the castle nut with the spindle hole in order to fit the new cotter pin.
6. Reverse the above steps for re-assembly.
By hardlymoving
Saturday, March 12, 2011
The 1999 Nissan Maxima is a classic 4 door styling car. A perfectly respectable V6 with torque aplenty. 5 speed = fun; the AT is spotty anyway. Easy to work on, no major repairs have been needed yet. Gas tank is big and it takes at least 92 octane unless you want to change the knock sensor regularly. The Factory Service Manual contains General Information, Engine, Transmission/Transaxle, Drivenline/Axle, Suspension, Brakes, Steering, Restraints, Body, Air Condition, Electrical, Maintenance, etc.
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Thursday, February 17, 2011
Inside the gear shift tube that broke off is a thin rod . If you did not damage it or are still able to straighten it out, you can remove the rest of the gear shift by removing the three torx screws (there may be tools in the back for this task). Dismantle the plastic parts and then take the entire pieces to a welder and have him weld the broken piece back in the exact same position.
($15-$20 job). Then you need to assemble the thin rod which is fitted from the top (must remove the knob by simply prying it off) and then put the spring and the reverse locking piece at the bottom by screwing it on to the thin rod. after it is assembled, put the plastic ball and the clip on and install the piece in the gear shifter housing. Temporarily install the screws and test for correct reverse action. If it goes towards reverse without a need to pull up on the lever, then remove the shifter, remove the clip and unscrew the lower piece (reverse lock) look here
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The BMW X5 Repair Manual: 2000-2006 is a comprehensive source of service information and specifications for the BMW X5 from 2000 to 2006. Whether you’re a professional or a do-it-yourself BMW owner, this manual will help you understand, care for and repair your sport activity vehicle.
Models, engines and transmissions covered
Models and engines
3.0i M54 engine, 6-cylinder 3.0 liter
4.4i M62 TU engine, V8 4.4 liter
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Transmissions (remove, install, external service)
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Manual 6-speed GS6-37BZ
Automatic 5-speed A5S 390R
Automatic 5-speed A5S 440Z
Automatic 6-speed GA6HP26Z
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